“What can you expect from a private wine tour in Sicily?”
August 17, 2022
“The car slowed and came to a stop at an intersection in the heart of the Etnaean town, Castiglione di Sicilia. Plenty of time for Giulia Monteleone, an ebullient, charismatic outspoken and self-described “wine grower” to emerge from across the street and hop in the back seat with my wife and me. A few kilometers later we stop surrounded by Mario the shepherd, his five dogs and a herd of 100-plus sheep. There’d been a disagreement with Mario earlier in the day – his sheep like to break through the fence and enjoy a grapevine or two – but all is forgiven (for) now, and “Ciao, Ciao, Ciao” we proceed to Giulia’s vineyard.
Moments later, Spring in full and glorious bloom, we were hiking through the lush cover crop of Contrada Cuba (Monteleone’s estate vineyard) doing our best to keep up with Giulia as she pointed out the variant soils, espalier and alberello trained Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio vines, the rushing Alcantara river – all with their unique influence on Monteleone’s wines. A little further on, Cuba of Santa Domenica – an ancient Byzantine church for which Monteleone’s estate Etna Rosso is named – came into view next to the vineyard.
We pressed on, past the stone building that is scheduled to be re-envisioned into the winery building, rounding a corner and coming to a “picnic” table set amongst a small olive grove. Views giving way to the vineyard, the hilltop town of Castiglione di Sicilia in the distance and the small fire of sarment set for the BBQ in the foreground. Giulia invites us to the table and we sit down to a guided tasting through the two Etna Biancos and the two Etna Rossos as we feast on olives and olive oil from the grove we’re sitting in, local bread, salumi and cheese, followed by a grilled ring of fennel laced salsiccia, and the crowning piece – a wood grilled bistecca that pairs memorably with the Cuba Etna Rosso. We linger – not wanting it to end – before time runs out and we’re on to the next visit….
So began our “bespoke” three day wine tour of the northern, eastern and southern slopes of Mount Etna with Helen Bezane. We went on to visit with some of Etna’s most iconic and emergent artisanal producers. Each visit afforded intimate visits with the winemakers – sharing their work and passion with walks through vineyards and winery and, always, fascinating conversation over their wines.
There was the visit with Filippo Mangione at Ayunta. A veritable masterclass in the terroir of Etna, his walk-through re-design of an ancient Palmento into a modern winery preserving its historical elements and significance, and a succession of wines opened and tasted at table as he inculcated us with the culture of the mountain.
There were the old vine, altitude driven wines of Stef Yim where, on a cool Spring day, we hiked to a Grenache vineyard set at 1200 m.a.s.l., sat next to amphorae embedded in the vineyard floor and opened a bottle from the same vineyard – full of generous fruit and volcanic driven finesse – as we gazed out at the valley below.
There was the visit to I Vigneri with a tasting hosted by his son Simone and followed by a walk through with Salvo Foti himself. Salvo, an oenologist, consultant and producer is an iconic figure among modern day Etna winemakers. He has played a significant role in the re-emergence of Etnaean wines. Stunningly modest and kind, he was generous with his time and explanations as we toured the winery and the only working Palmento on the mountain.
And then, there was the four Bullmastiff greeting at Ciro Biondi. Ciro was called away, but his wife and partner in wine, Stephanie (she’d called the day before to make sure we’d be OK with the dogs), greeted us warmly and proceeded to lead us through the steeply terraced vineyards to a vantage point for their vineyards and the sea beyond. Back at the dining room table we taste through some of the mountain’s best Etna Bianco and Etna Rosso while lunching on Stephanie’s charcuterie platter and listening as she shared the history of the winery.
What all the visits had in common was Helen’s touch. Not just on a first name basis, she is a friend to many of the winemaker’s we visited and so obviously respected – confirmed several days later by Biaggio Di Stefano at COS who, unsolicited, sang her praises and extolled her professionalism during an individually arranged visit after our tour with Helen. Helen and I communicated prior to our visits as I knew I wanted a deeper dive into Etna with a focus on artisanal producers. She took time to understand my interests and then delivered in a way I could not have expected. I walked away from Etna with a vastly improved understanding of the wines, the terroir, and the challenge and mystique of working the mountain. More powerfully, I walked away with a sense of awe and connection that will come to life each time I pull an Etna cork.
Helen’s network extends throughout Sicily and whatever your wine interests might be on the island she can deliver an educational, intimate, deep and nuanced experience you’d be hard pressed to find elsewhere. Her recommendations for food and lodging were excellent. I’ve toured many of the world’s wine regions. I’ve not had a better experience.”
Chan Peterson
The World of Fine Wining
May 2022
Tags :
artisanal wine,etna,etna wine tour,etna winery,natural wine,sicilian winery
